Computer Memory for Custom Built Computers

Deciding on computer memory for most of us doesn’t mean much. For those who do understand, they know that selecting the right computer memory can mean a world of difference in performance of your computer. It’s been said that you can never have enough money, and the same holds true for RAM, especially if you do a lot of graphics-intensive work or gaming. Next to the CPU itself, RAM is the most important factor in computer performance. If you don’t have enough, adding RAM can make more of a difference than getting a new CPU!

RAM is the best known form of computer memory. RAM is considered “random access” because you can access any memory cell directly if you know the row and column that intersect at that cell. When you think about it, it’s amazing how many different types of electronic memory you encounter in daily life. Many of them have become an integral part of our vocabulary: RAM, ROM, Cache, Dynamic RAM, Static RAM, Flash memory, Memory Sticks, Virtual memory, Video memory, and BIOS.

DDR2 RAM

If your system responds slowly or accesses the hard drive constantly, then you need to add more RAM. If you are running Windows XP, Microsoft recommends 128MB as the minimum RAM requirement. At 64MB, you may experience frequent application problems. For optimal performance with standard desktop applications, 256MB is recommended. If you are running Windows 95/98, you need a bare minimum of 32 MB, and your computer will work much better with 64 MB. Windows NT/2000 needs at least 64 MB, and it will take everything you can throw at it, so you’ll probably want 128 MB or more.

We will discuss the benefits of memory and how to decide how much memory your custom computer or custom laptop should have. You can always upgrade later, but it is best to get the right memory first.

Which type of computer memory should I choose?

Typically the easiest and most cost-effective way to improve your computer’s performance is to add more memory. So, which memory is the right one for you? There are two ways you figure this out. The first is to spend some time and learn what terms like ECC, DDR, DDR2, registered, unbuffered, and parity, mean. Not a DRAM brainiac? Don’t worry, there’s an easier way.

You really can’t make a wrong choice when you’re using our Build a Custom Computer or Build a Custom Laptop tool. As you select your desired CPU and Motherboard components for the custom computer configuration or the Display and CPU for the custom laptop configuration, all the computer memory options available will display.

The biggest decision you’ll have to make using the Custom Build Configuration tool is figuring out how much memory you need.

What size computer memory module should I buy?

As long as you don’t exceed the maximum memory for your system, bigger is better. We recommend buying the maximum amount of memory (highest number of MB) that fits into your budget. How much do you have?

To make sure you don’t exceed the maximum memory for your system, subtract the amount of memory currently in your system from the maximum memory listed in your system specifications. For example, if your system can take a maximum of 512MB RAM, and you currently have 256MB installed, you can install up to 256MB of additional RAM (512MB – 256MB = 256MB).

How much do I need?

Many DDR and all DDR2 desktops and motherboards have a built-in feature called dual channel that allows you to utilize the bandwidth of two modules at the same time. For these systems, you need to install modules in pairs for maximum performance, so if you are going to be adding 512MB of memory, you are better off buying two 256MB modules, as opposed to one 512MB one. Again, this information is noted in the Custom Build Configuration tool to help you get the right setup.

Which speed and memory technology should I buy?

In general, you should match the speed and type of memory technology that is already in your system. If you don’t know exactly what type of memory you currently have, don’t worry; any of the modules listed in the Memory Advisor tool for your system should work fine.

Common types of memory technology today include DDR2 (double data rate, second generation) SDRAM and DDR (double data rate, first generation) SDRAM. Many older systems use SDR (single data rate) SDRAM, fast page mode (FPM), or extended data out (EDO). Each of these memory types comes in a variety of speeds. And while most systems will accept only one type of memory technology (the very few motherboards that can accept more than one type of memory will only allow you to use one type at a time), it’s okay to mix the speed of the memory in a system. Just keep in mind that your computer is made to handle a specific memory speed, so even if you add a faster speed memory, your computer will only allow it to run at the speed your computer was made to handle.

Here’s a rough guide to relative memory speeds:

MEMORY SPEEDS
Technology — Speed — Module Bandwith
SDR — PC100 — 0.8 GB/sec
SDR — PC133 — 1.0 GB/sec
DDR — PC1600 — 1.6 GB/sec
DDR — PC2100 — 2.1 GB/sec
DDR — PC2700 — 2.7 GB/sec
DDR — PC3200 — 3.2 GB/sec
DDR — PC4000 — 4.0 GB/sec
DDR2 — PC2-3200 — 3.2 GB/sec
DDR2 — PC2-4200 — 4.2 GB/sec
DDR2 — PC2-5300 — 5.3 GB/sec
DDR2 — PC2-6400 — 6.4 GB/sec

The higher the number, the faster the memory; for example, PC133 is faster than PC100, and DDR is faster than SDR.

Remember, it’s best to match the memory that is currently in your system.

It might seem confusing, but faster memory will NOT necessarily make your system faster. Your computer will run only as fast as the “slowest link” in your system, so you can’t speed up your computer by adding faster memory. The way to make your system faster is to add more megabytes (MB) of memory.

Do I need error checking?

Most desktop computers take what’s called “non-parity” memory and do not need error correction code (ECC), or “parity” modules. (However, in most cases ECC modules will work in desktops.) ECC modules look for errors in data and are most often found in servers and other mission-critical applications used by large networks and businesses. There are, however, a few desktop systems that do use ECC modules. In any case, you should buy the type of memory that’s already installed in your system. You can tell which kind you have by looking at one of the modules currently installed. Count the RAM chips on one module. If the number of chips can be evenly divided by three or five, you should buy ECC or parity (whichever is offered for your system). If not, you should buy non-parity. For example, if one of your modules has nine RAM chips, you should buy ECC or parity. If one of your modules has eight RAM chips, you should buy non-parity. Or, you can look up your system in the Memory Advisor tool.

If you’re building your own system, we recommend using non-parity parts unless you will be using your system as a server or have a need for error checking. ECC and parity parts are slower than non-parity parts.

What does “CL” stand for?

CL stands for CAS (column address strobe) latency, which is the number of clock cycles it takes before data starts to flow after a command is received. Low CAS latency at a given frequency is faster than high CAS latency at that same frequency. (For example, CAS2 is faster than CAS3.) However, lower CAS latency will NOT necessarily make your system faster. Your computer will only run as fast as the “slowest link” in your system, so you can’t speed up your computer by adding memory that is faster than your current memory. The way to make your system faster is to add more megabytes (MB) of memory.

In general, we recommend using parts with the fastest speeds. This will give you the highest level of compatibility and future upgrade path.

If you don’t know the CAS latency of the memory you currently have installed, don’t worry; any of the modules listed in the Memory Advisor tool are guaranteed to work in your system.

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